Friday, December 1, 2017

Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller and Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, at Restaurant SchauMahl with a 2003 Weingut Fürst Hundsrück Spätburgunder in the Double-Magnum (3 Liters)

Restaurant SchauMahl in Offenbach, in the greater Frankfurt am Main area, is one of the best restaurants in the region. With Chef Björn Andreas, Restaurant SchauMahl has been at the 16 points Gault Millau rating for a number of years, which was confirmed a few days ago in the Gault Millau Deutschland 2018.

With a charming service, Esra Egner and Raffaele Fazio make sure that you feel good at Restaurant SchauMahl.

Restaurant SchauMahl runs an interesting series of winemaker dinners. If I am in town (Frankfurt) I always book immediately, because these dinners sell out very fast.

Picture: Arriving at SchauMahl

This time, it was a winemaker dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst, in Bürgstadt, Franken. With 5/5 stars in the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Weingut Fürst is one of the leading 20 or so producers in Germany.

Earlier in the day, I attended with Sebastian Fürst the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony in Mainz.

I was there to write about it:  Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Sebastian Fürst was there to receive the Bester Gereifter Weisser Burgunder Wein Award (Best Aged White Burgundy Grape Variety - Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Auxerrois - Wine).

Picures: Service-Chef Esra Egner and Owner Stefan Lang with Sebastian Fürst

Weingut Rudolf Fürst

The Miltenberg basin in the western tip of Franken between the forested hills of the Odenwald and the Spessart, where Bürgstadt is located, provides ideal climatic conditions for first-class viticulture. The weathered colored sandstone of the Centgrafenberg vineyard in Bürgstadt and the extremely steep slopes of the Schlossberg vineyard in Klingenberg are home to the most extraordinary Frühburgunder and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir Précos and Pinot Noir) produced by Paul Fürst and his son Sebastian.

Frühburgunder (also known as Pinot Madeleine) is an old variety, autochthonous to this region, which yields full bodied wines and has attracted more and more attention over the last years. Roughly 60% of the wine produced is red.

In addition to the reds, brilliant white wines, such as Riesling, Weissburgunder and Franken’s signature wine, Silvaner, are also produced here.

The Fürst family has been producing wine in this area since 1638. In 1979 Paul and Monika Fürst built the new estate amidst the vineyards and in 2007 they were joined by their son Sebastian.

For the Fürsts the vineyards are the biggest asset in the production of high qualitiy wines. Whether it's the high density of planting, best rootstocks and scions, low trellises, optimal humus content, plant protection and selective picking, all aspects are regarded as equally essential and from pruning to picking all the most important work in the vineyards is done by hand. Altogether Weingut Fürst has 20 hectares of vines, with 13 hectares of the Centgrafenberg vineyard the biggest block.

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, at SchauMahl

Centgrafenberg: Bürgstadt, 11 ha. As a result of the practice of gavelkind over centuries, the vineyards are split into 20 plots, creating a broad spectrum of soil composition. The higher the content of fertile loam, the better the soils are suited for growing white wines, whereas the more stony plots are perfect for the reds.

Hundsrück: Bürgstadt, 2.5 ha, partially terraced, Großes Gewächs since 2003, primary rock covered by 0.5-2m of warm, well drained and aerated surface soil The ideal vineyard soil, though quite unforgiving when it comes to mistakes in husbandry. Each year the Hundsrück makes for the most powerful and spicy Pinot in our portfolio.

Schlossberg: Klingenberg, 1.3 ha, steep terraces, red sandstone, one of Germany's famous historical pinot sites, In 2004 Paul and Sebastian bought 3 plots on this impressive slope, including the one between the wing walls of Clingenburg castle . Between 2004 and 2006 they were planted with the best Pinot vines and hundreds of yards of dry stone wall were restored.

Karthäuser: Volkach, shell limestone, Chardonnay ,Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, named for the adjacent charterhouse of Astheim.

After fermentation on the skins in open vats, the red varieties are left in french oak barrels for 12 to 20 months to mature and settle. All red wines are bottled unfiltered. White wines are pressed gently, fermented and aged in both barrels and stainless steel tanks for 6 - 12 months. Lowtech vinification assures each wine gets the necessary time to develop.

Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 - 5 Years Later, Bester Weisser Burgunder: Weingut Fürst, Centgrafenberg Weissburgunder 2012

I had seen Sebastian Fürst earlier in the day at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony in Mainz. I was there to write about the event. He was there to receive an award: 5 Years Later: Bester Weisser Burgunder (Best Aged White Burgundy Grape Variety - Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Auxerrois - Wine).

2012 Weingut Fürst Centgrafenberg Weisburgunder Grosse Lage GG

Pictures: Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Editor-in-Chief Joel B. Payne, Stephan Knipser, Weingut Knipser, Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst and Christian Schiller at the at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony in Mainz. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

The Dinner

Gruss vom Koch


Onsenei mit Schnittlauch und Kichererbse


Schweinebauch mit Jakobsmuschel, Speck und Wasabi


Weisser Hailbutt auf Risotto


Reh mit Wachtel, Grünkohl und Kartoffelknödel


Camembert


Dessert


The Wines

2014 Weingut Fürst Pinot Blanc Brut


2015 Weingut Fürst Centgrafenberg Silvaner

Centgrafenberg: Bürgstadt, 11 ha. As a result of the practice of gavelkind over centuries, the vineyards are split into 20 plots, creating a broad spectrum of soil composition. The higher the content of fertile loam, the better the soils are suited for growing white wines, whereas the more stony plots are perfect for the reds.


2015 Weingut Fürst Astheimer Weisser Burgunder&Chardonnay


2015 Weingut Fürst Chardonnay Karthäuser

Karthäuser: Volkach, shell limestone, Chardonnay ,Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, named for the adjacent charterhouse of Astheim.


2015 Weingut Fürst Frühburgunder R aus der Magnum

Frühburgunder (also known as Pinot Madeleine) is an old variety, autochthonous to this region, which yields full bodied wines and has attracted more and more attention over the last years.


2003 Weingut Fürst Hundsrück GG Spätburgunder aus der Doppel-Magnum

Hundsrück: Bürgstadt, 2.5 ha, partially terraced, Großes Gewächs since 2003, primary rock covered by 0.5-2m of warm, well drained and aerated surface soil The ideal vineyard soil, though quite unforgiving when it comes to mistakes in husbandry. Each year the Hundsrück makes for the most powerful and spicy Pinot in our portfolio.


2013 Weingut Fürst Centgrafenberg Rieslaner Auslese


Weingut Fürst Fränkischer Wildkirsch


Impressive Selection of Weingut Fürst Wines


Restaurant SchauMahl

Situated in a renovated Art Nouveau building, the interior of the restaurant schauMahl combines a cozy living room atmosphere with the world of One Thousand and One Nights, coupled with modern illumination. Intensive red light is coming out of a white corner. There are brick walls and furniture in a colonial style. In the window niche is a Buddha.

Picture: Restaurant schauMahl in Offenbach/ Frankfurt

Chef Björn Andreas is at the helm of the team in kitchen. He was promoted from Souschef to Chef a few years ago when former Chef Christoph Kubenz (now also 16 points Gault Millau at Biancalini) left. Chef Björn Andreas has worked for top chefs, including Alfred Friedrich.


Picture: Chef Björn Andreas and Christian Schiller

When Pit Punda left a year or so ago, his Deputy Esra Egner took over as Maître d'hôtel and Raffaele Fazio became her #2.

Picture: Esra Egner

Gault and Millau: Es mag sich auf den ersten Bissen nicht viel verändert haben, und doch gibt es deutliche Unterschiede in der gesamten Stilistik. Kubenz war sensibel und leise, Andreas ist forsch, seine Gerichte sind muskulös. 15 Gault Millau points.

Open Table: Eher steigen die Offenbacher Kickers in die erste Liga auf, als dass es in der Stadt ein gutes Lokal gibt. Dieser Spruch gilt nicht mehr, das Schaumahl lässt staunen: Küche, Keller, Service und Atmosphäre – hier stimmt alles. Das etwas windschiefe Jugendstilbau aus dem 18. Jahrhundert wurde nicht schick geschminkt, sondern behielt seinen Charakter und strahlt Landhauscharme aus. Dazu passt die natürliche und lebensfrohe Art von Gastgeber Pit Punda und seiner Vize Esra Egner.

See also:

15 Gault Millau Points in Offenbach – Restaurant schauMahl, Germany 
The Best Restaurants in the Greater Frankfurt am Main Region, Germany

The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany
Fabulous Dinner at schauMahl Restaurant with Winemaker Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Chef Björn Andreas and Sommelier Pit Punda, Germany
Winemaker Dinner with Azienda Agricola Foradori (Trentino, Italy) at SchauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

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